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Leeks are wonderful but need careful preparation. Use only the white and very, very pale green parts. Trim off the root end and discard the woody green end. Leeks are grown in sand or very sandy soil, so they need careful cleaning. (Silicon does not cook down.) Slice the white part in half lengthwise and wash carefully under running water. You can grasp the root end and fan the leek layers under the water like a deck of cards. When you’ve rinsed away any sand, thinly slice the leeks crosswise. Peel and chop the potatoes. Finely dice the onion.
Melt the butter in the soup kettle, add the leeks and onion, and saute over medium high heat for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and chicken stock and bring just to the boil. Turn down, cover, and simmer 15 minutes or until the potatoes are very soft.
Remove from heat. Using the technique and power equipment of your choice, blend everything so that it is perfectly smooth. (I prefer a stick blender, but you can also use a food processor, malt maker, or hand tools. Just get it smooth.)
Add the cream. Adjust the seasoning, using white pepper rather than black so as to avoid the distraction of tiny black flecks.
Vichyssoise is classically served well chilled and garnished with chopped chives or watercress, greens with a bite to them. It also works well served hot. The flavor improves for a day or two, then begins a long, slow decline.
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